Read This Before You Go To Your First Card Convention

So, you’re going to your first card convention? Awesome. Welcome to one of the most exciting, chaotic, and fun parts of the hobby.

Let’s be real for a second. Your first show is a sensory overload. It’s a wall of sound—thousands of people talking, the clack-clack-clack of graded slabs, vendors shouting, and the visual noise of millions of cards. It’s like walking into the Pokémon League for the first time… armed with only a Level 5 Rattata. You’re going to be overwhelmed, and that’s okay.

The difference between a fantastic haul and a frustrating day of overspending is a game plan. You need a map, a Pokédex, and a couple of Potions.

As a collector who has been through the wringer, I’m here to be your guide. This is your personal cheat sheet for surviving and thriving at your first show, including how to negotiate good deals.

Your Adventure Pack… Don’t Leave Home Without It!

Before you even think about leaving, you need to pack your “Go-Bag.” This isn’t just about convenience; it’s about strategy.

• Cash (and lots of it): I cannot stress this enough. Cash. Is. King. Sure, many vendors take PayPal or Venmo now, but cash is your ultimate negotiation tool. A vendor who has to pay card fees could be less likely to give you a deal. Waving crisp bills is a universal language. Bring smaller bills, too; it’s easier to make an exact offer.
• Comfy Shoes: This is a command, not a suggestion. Leave the “fancy kicks” at home. You are going to be walking and standing for hours. Your feet will thank you.
• A Fully Charged Phone… and a Power Bank: This is your Pokédex. It’s your single most important tool for “comps” (checking prices). You will be using it all day. It will die. Bring one, or even two, portable chargers. We have recently released a calculator called Swift Deal Calculator… make sure to check it out 🙂
• Your “Want List”: Your quest log! Write down exactly what cards, perhaps even a specific “chase card,” you are hunting for. This is your primary defense against the sensory overload that’s designed to make you impulse-buy.
• Supplies: A secure backpack, extra penny sleeves and toploaders for new raw cards, and your “trade bait” binder.
• Survival Gear: A bottle of water and a snack. Convention food is expensive, and lines are long. A hangry negotiator is a bad negotiator.

What to Know Before You Go

Not all shows are created equal. You need to know what you’re walking into.

• The Local Show: This is your town’s “VFW Hall” show. Maybe 20-50 tables. It’s great for digging in dollar boxes and meeting local dealers.
• The Regional Show: A big-city show with hundreds of tables. These often have a regional flavor (think more local sports teams).
• The “National”: This is the big one. This is the “Mecca” of the hobby. It’s a massive, industry-wide event with major companies (Topps, PSA, etc.) and auction houses.
• The Focus: Is this a sports card show or a TCG show (Pokémon, Magic, Yu-Gi-Oh)?. Don’t be the person looking for a 1st Edition Charizard at a show that’s 99% vintage baseball.

Pro-Tip (From Me to You): If the show offers a “VIP” ticket, buy it. That extra hour of “early access” before the general public floods in is when the best deals are found and the rarest cards get snagged.

The Main Floor Aka ‘The Human Safari Zone’

Okay, you’re in. What are you looking at? The floor is a collection of different “zones,” and you can’t be in all of them at once.

1. The Vendor Floor: The heart of the show. Hundreds of tables, not organized in any way. This is where you’ll spend 90% of your time.
2. The Autograph Pavilion: A separate area where athletes or celebrities sign for a (usually hefty) extra fee. This requires waiting in long lines.
3. The TCG Tournament Pit: If it’s a TCG-focused show, there will be a large, roped-off area for tournaments. This is a major time commitment, often all day. You can find guides for major events online.
4. Trade Nights: These are becoming huge attractions, often held after show hours at the venue or a hotel. This is where you trade with other attendees, not just dealers.

Your “Want List” dictates your day. If your goal is to buy cards, stay on the vendor floor. If you’re there for an autograph, schedule your day around that time slot.

The “Don’t Be ‘That Guy” Unspoken Rules

A card show is a community. How you act matters. Vendors talk, and you’ll get better deals if you’re not a jerk.

• Handling Cards (The “Ask First” Rule): This is the cardinal rule. NEVER reach into a vendor’s display case. Point and ask politely, “May I please see this card?”. And please, don’t handle cards right after eating. Understanding card conditions is key, and oily fingers are a fast way to downgrade a card.
• Don’t Hog a Table: Vendors pay hundreds, even thousands, for that table. They are there to do business. It’s fine to browse, but if you’re not buying, be mindful of others waiting and move on.
• Respect “No”: If a dealer’s price is firm or a trader declines your offer, just say, “Okay, thank you for your time,” and walk away. Don’t be aggressive or pressure them.
• The “Con Funk”: I’m just going to say it. Please, please shower and wear deodorant. Conventions are crowded and hot. We’re all there to smell that glorious old cardboard, not… well, you get it. Be a good neighbor.

The Art of the Deal

Here’s my favorite part. Haggling is not rude. It is 100% expected. Vendors often price cards high knowing you’re going to negotiate.

Step 1: Know Your Comps

Before you make an offer, you need data that explains what makes a card valuable.

• For Sports: Use eBay Sold Listings. The “asking” price is fantasy; the “sold” price is reality.
• Sports Pro-Tool: Use 130point.com. When an eBay item sells via “Best Offer,” eBay only shows the original asking price. 130point shows you the actual, lower price it sold for. This is the true comp.
• For TCGs (Pokémon, Magic): A lot of people use eBay’s last sold listings, but if you are after something easier to use and more convenient, consider using our pokémon card price finder tool!

Step 2: The “Hyper Beam” of Negotiating

Want the single best way to get a deal? It’s not by lowballing. It’s The Bundle.

Don’t just pick one card. Go through a vendor’s table and pull three, five, or ten cards you want. Stack them up and ask, “What’s your best price for the whole lot?”. Vendors love moving volume. They will almost always give you a much better discount (10-20% off) on a bundle than on a single card.

Step 3: Be Cool

• Build Rapport: Don’t just grunt and point. Say hello. Ask them what they collect. Be a human. People give better deals to people they like.
• Don’t Insult: Never shove your phone in their face and say, “But eBay says…”. Just use your comp knowledge to make a reasonable offer.
• Be Willing to Walk Away: If you can’t get to a price you like, be polite and walk. It’s your strongest move. Sometimes, they’ll even call you back.

If You Wanna Sell Cards

Bringing your “trade bait” binder is a great idea. But you MUST manage your expectations.

You will not get full eBay-comp value from a dealer. They are a business with overhead (table fees, travel, etc.) and they need to make a profit.

Here is the “Buylist Formula” you can expect, which often involves the 80 percent trade value rule:

• Cash Offer: ~60-70% of market value.
• Trade Credit Offer: ~70-80% of market value.

Pro-Tip (From Me to You): You’re right, that part can be tricky and sounds a bit like “card-collector math”! My apologies, I’ll rephrase that “Pro-Tip” to be much clearer.

Here is the updated article with that section rephrased.

Read This Before You Go To Your First Card Convention

So, you’re going to your first card convention? Awesome. Welcome to one of the most exciting, chaotic, and fun parts of the hobby.

Let’s be real for a second. Your first show is a sensory overload. It’s a wall of sound—thousands of people talking, the clack-clack-clack of graded slabs, vendors shouting, and the visual noise of millions of cards. It’s like walking into the Pokémon League for the first time… armed with only a Level 5 Rattata. You’re going to be overwhelmed, and that’s okay.

The difference between a fantastic haul and a frustrating day of overspending is a game plan. You need a map, a Pokédex, and a couple of Potions.

As a collector who has been through the wringer, I’m here to be your guide. This is your personal cheat sheet for surviving and thriving at your first show, including how to negotiate good deals.

Your Adventure Pack: Don’t Leave Home Without It!

Before you even think about leaving, you need to pack your “Go-Bag.” This isn’t just about convenience; it’s about strategy.

• Cash (and lots of it): I cannot stress this enough. Cash. Is. King.. Sure, many vendors take PayPal or Venmo now, but cash is your ultimate negotiation tool. A vendor who has to pay card fees is less likely to give you a deal. Waving crisp bills is a universal language. Bring smaller bills, too; it’s easier to make an exact offer.
• Comfy Shoes: This is a command, not a suggestion. Leave the “fancy kicks” at home. You are going to be walking and standing for hours. Your feet will thank you.
• A Fully Charged Phone… and a Power Bank: This is your Pokédex. It’s your single most important tool for “comps” (checking prices). You will be using it all day. It will die. Bring one, or even two, portable chargers.
• Your “Want List”: Your quest log! Write down exactly what cards, perhaps even a specific “chase card,” you are hunting for. This is your primary defense against the sensory overload that’s designed to make you impulse-buy.
• Supplies: A secure backpack, extra penny sleeves and toploaders for new raw cards, and your “trade bait” binder.
• Survival Gear: A bottle of water and a snack. Convention food is expensive, and lines are long. A hangry negotiator is a bad negotiator.

Know Before You Go: What ‘Gym’ Are You Challenging?

Not all shows are created equal. You need to know what you’re walking into.

• The Local Show: This is your town’s “VFW Hall” show. Maybe 20-50 tables. It’s great for digging in dollar boxes and meeting local dealers.
• The Regional Show: A big-city show with hundreds of tables. These often have a regional flavor (think more local sports teams).
• The “National”: This is the big one. This is the “Mecca” of the hobby. It’s a massive, industry-wide event with major companies (Topps, PSA, etc.) and auction houses.
• The Focus: Is this a sports card show or a TCG show (Pokémon, Magic, Yu-Gi-Oh)?. Don’t be the person looking for a 1st Edition Charizard at a show that’s 99% vintage baseball.

Pro-Tip (From Me to You): If the show offers a “VIP” ticket, buy it. That extra hour of “early access” before the general public floods in is when the best deals are found and the rarest cards get snagged.

Navigating the Floor: A Map of the ‘Safari Zone’

Okay, you’re in. What are you looking at? The floor is a collection of different “zones,” and you can’t be in all of them at once.

1. The Vendor Floor: The heart of the show. Hundreds of tables, not organized in any way. This is where you’ll spend 90% of your time.
2. The Autograph Pavilion: A separate area where athletes or celebrities sign for a (usually hefty) extra fee. This requires waiting in long lines.
3. The TCG Tournament Pit: If it’s a TCG-focused show, there will be a large, roped-off area for tournaments. This is a major time commitment, often all day. You can find guides for major events, like the(https://card-codex.com/news/anaheim-welcomes-pokemons-elite-2025-world-championships-full-event-guide/), online.
4. Trade Nights: These are becoming huge attractions, often held after show hours at the venue or a hotel. This is where you trade with other attendees, not just dealers.

Your “Want List” dictates your day. If your goal is to buy cards, stay on the vendor floor. If you’re there for an autograph, schedule your day around that time slot.

The Unspoken Rules: Don’t Be ‘That Guy’

A card show is a community. How you act matters. Vendors talk, and you’ll get better deals if you’re not a jerk.

• Handling Cards (The “Ask First” Rule): This is the cardinal rule. NEVER reach into a vendor’s display case. Point and ask politely, “May I please see this card?”. And please, don’t handle cards right after eating. Understanding card conditions is key, and oily fingers are a fast way to downgrade a card.
• Don’t Hog a Table: Vendors pay hundreds, even thousands, for that table. They are there to do business. It’s fine to browse, but if you’re not buying, be mindful of others waiting and move on.
• Respect “No”: If a dealer’s price is firm or a trader declines your offer, just say, “Okay, thank you for your time,” and walk away. Don’t be aggressive or pressure them.
• The “Con Funk”: I’m just going to say it. Please, please shower and wear deodorant. Conventions are crowded and hot. We’re all there to smell that glorious old cardboard, not… well, you get it. Be a good neighbor.

The Art of the Deal: A Haggling Masterclass

Here’s my favorite part. Haggling is not rude. It is 100% expected. Vendors often price cards high knowing you’re going to negotiate.

Step 1: Know Your Comps (The Pokédex) Before you make an offer, you need data that explains what makes a card valuable.

• For Sports: Use eBay Sold Listings. The “asking” price is fantasy; the “sold” price is reality.
• Sports Pro-Tool: Use 130point.com. When an eBay item sells via “Best Offer,” eBay only shows the original asking price. 130point shows you the actual, lower price it sold for. This is the true comp.
• For TCGs (Pokémon, Magic): Use TCGplayer. But be careful. You want the “Market Price” (which is based on recent, completed sales). Do NOT use the “Listed Median,” which is often a wildly inflated average of unsold cards.

Step 2: The “Hyper Beam” of Negotiating Want the single best way to get a deal? It’s not by lowballing. It’s The Bundle.

Don’t just pick one card. Go through a vendor’s table and pull three, five, or ten cards you want. Stack them up and ask, “What’s your best price for the whole lot?”. Vendors love moving volume. They will almost always give you a much better discount (10-20% off) on a bundle than on a single card.

Step 3: Be Cool

• Build Rapport: Don’t just grunt and point. Say hello. Ask them what they collect. Be a human. People give better deals to people they like.
• Don’t Insult: Never shove your phone in their face and say, “But eBay says…”. Just use your comp knowledge to make a reasonable offer.
• Be Willing to Walk Away: If you can’t get to a price you like, be polite and walk. It’s your strongest move. Sometimes, they’ll even call you back.

So You Wanna Be a Seller? (The Other Side)

Bringing your “trade bait” binder is a great idea. But you MUST manage your expectations.

You will not get full eBay-comp value from a dealer. They are a business with overhead (table fees, travel, etc.) and they need to make a profit.

Here is the “Buylist Formula” you can expect, which often involves the 80 percent trade value rule:

• Cash Offer: ~60-70% of market value.
• Trade Credit Offer: ~70-80% of market value.

Pro-Tip (From Me to You): If the dealer has cards you want, always take the trade credit. A dealer will almost always give you a higher value in trade (e.g., $80) than they will in cash (e.g., $70). That extra 10-15% “bump” is a bonus for you to spend at their table. You’re using that bonus to get more buying power, which is the best way to “trade up” for a better card. This is just one of many options when deciding where to sell Pokemon cards.

My ‘Elite Four’ Tips for Your Next Con

You’ve got the basics. Now, here are a few expert-level tricks.

1. The “Sunday Special”: Timing is everything. Go early on the first day (or VIP night) for the best selection. Go late on Sunday afternoon for the best deals. Vendors are exhausted and would rather take a lower cash offer than pack up all that inventory and fly home with it.
2. The “Dollar Box” Dive: Don’t just stare at the shiny, high-grade cases. The real treasure hunt is in the “dollar boxes” and bulk card binders. Vendors get these in huge collections and don’t have time to re-price everything. I’ve found $20 cards in $1 boxes all the time.
3. The “Walk-Around” Paradox: A common tip is to “walk the whole floor before you buy”. This is smart, but it creates a paradox: if you see a great deal and walk away, it will be gone when you come back.
   • Here’s how I solve it:
     • If a card is on my pre-researched “Want List” and I find it at or below my target comp, I buy it on the spot.
     • If it’s a card I wasn’t looking for (an “item of opportunity”), I’ll do a lap to compare prices.
4. Stay Safe: This is no joke. You and everyone around you are carrying large amounts of cash and small, high-value, liquid assets. Be discreet. Don’t flash your money. Keep your backpack zipped and secure. Theft is rare, but it happens. It’s wise to learn how to avoid scams and even consider if you should insure your collection.

The Real “Grail”: Have Fun!

You’re going to see amazing cards. You’ll hunt, you’ll haggle, you’ll probably get a great deal (and probably overpay for one thing you just had to have).

But the real “grail” isn’t a card. It’s the community. Talk to people. Ask vendors what they’re excited about. Get business cards. The hobby is about relationships. My best deals and rarest finds have come from dealers I’ve known for years—people I met just like this.

So, go have a blast. Welcome to the club.